Muscat is a beautiful city, languidly stretching along the coastline. But it is really the arid interior of Oman that inspires legends.

The drive out of Muscat across the mountain ridge of Al Amiraat is a breathtaking introduction to the dramatic landscape this stretch of the Middle East has to offer. As you descend from the mountain pass you can liken it to a moon landing.

The moonscape ahead of you consists of dark crests of rock that breaks through the landscape, like the spine of some ghastly fish. The landscape is flecked with white buildings bathing in the early morning sunlight. If you catch it at the right time you can glimpse gold as the sunrise glances off the houses.

The harsh topography does a devilish dance with your heart.

One’s fascination becomes ensnared in the folds of the mountains. Every curve is delineated, every moment of history is traced in the palm of Oman’s hand. I would love to understand the geological history of this panorama.

Trading livestock at the Nizwa Souq

The drive to Nizwa is framed by historical buildings and small villages. Keep a lookout for all the date plantations and small wadi farms.

If you manage to sneak out on a Friday morning then the Nizwa Souq is quite the experience. It differs greatly from the Mutrah Souq in Muscat and reveals a more traditional side of the Omani culture. The traders show their pride in their silverware, antiques, pottery and rich tapestries.

The livestock market is also an atmosphere to experience. Every week, men of all ages, and tourists, gather beneath this gazebo. Goats, cattle and more are paraded up and down a small strip under the scrutiny of the elders.

We watch as an older man squats, hunched over his walking stick. He summons a young boy to have a goat brought to him. The man holds the goat, pushing his fingers into the animal’s mouth, seeing feelingly to determine its health. Seemingly dissatisfied, he waves the goat away.

The Black Magic of Bahla

My friends love to tell me of the black magic in the town of Bahla, about a half-hour drive from Nizwa. They say the town is cursed. It is haunted by Djinn – dark wizards that kidnap beautiful women.

“That is why the women there wear those ugly things on their faces. It’s to protect them from the djinn!”

My one friend shared over dinner. The night was lit by candles and to me, it sounded like ghost stories, but the women all shivered.

The djinn is not the only curious thing about Bahla; a 12 km wall surrounds the town. It is rumoured to be built by women and completed in one night to ward off danger.

Despite exploring myths and magic, the fort in the heart of Bahla is its biggest attraction. It stands tall and astute, bearing down over the surrounding ruins. To enter through its front gates is imposing, but to wander through the great rooms is a humbling experience. The architecture is exquisite and its history astounding, which has earned it its place as a UNESCO Heritage Site. It was erected between the 13th and 14th Century and completed renovations in 2012.

Wandering in Wadi Tanuf

This little wadi that hangs between Bahla and Nizwa is a must-visit. There are all sorts of small scale farming that sustains the little village. Children trample on the side of the road and the odd farmer can be seen working in the fields on a Friday.

This peaceful wadi life is sustained by the water from the mountains. An ancient and advanced falaj system allows the water to navigate through the farms and households. Trees provide plenty of shade for a picnic before returning to Muscat.

Soninke Combrinck

I write about connecting with nature as I chase my own adventures around the world.

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