An overnight hike in Switzerland
It was heavy when I slung my 60L backpack onto my back. The load of everything I need to survive in the wild for a night weighed on my shoulders. I mentally went over my checklist yet again, ticking off all the essential items.
The bus ride to our starting point is short, only a little way from Lucerne. Sanna and I take up ample space, with our overnight packs and hiking poles splayed across several seats. It feels strange to be breathing through our masks while heading out into the mountains.
We dismount at our destination, our lumpy bags unintentionally causing casualties as we rush out the door.
It is unusual to be starting an entire hike in the afternoon. Normally, we are up early to embark on the day’s adventure, making sure that we’re back home by dark. But today is different. Today we are spending a night in the wild.
Lake Lucerne in the afternoon light.
The ways of wild camping in Switzerland
Even though I have been on frequent adventures since moving to Switzerland, I have not camped here yet. Wild camping in Switzerland is a bit of a grey area, as they have many regulations in place to protect their pristine nature. We can get away with a few things, but it requires planning and an understanding of what is allowed.
For starters, you have to camp above the tree line and in an open area. You may not camp on any private land without the owner’s permission or within an area enclosed by a fence. Swiss National Parks, wildlife parks, nature reserves and designated wildlife areas are also out of the question. With these parameters in place, searching for a site to camp is a bit like a treasure hunt – but no X to mark the spot on a map.
Enchanted by the stunning views of the Alps.
Our plan is to hike through the afternoon, ascending over 1000m, and then finding a place to pitch our tent.
We set off just after lunchtime, quickly feeling the humid heat of the afternoon settle in our layers. Even though it was overcast, our steep climb made us appreciate any breeze that blows our way.
Today is my first time ascending with a fully packed, overnight bag. I can feel the difference the extra weight makes. Yet, oddly enough, I manage to walk at a faster gait than I usually would. There is something about having 12 kg strapped to my back and my hiking poles to lead the way that gave me the energy to tackle this mountain.
The light streaming onto the densely forested slopes.
As we neared our goal, we stop by the mountain restaurant for a plate of fries and hot chocolate. The chill was setting in my bones now. I need salt and sugar to combat the fatigue of the climb. Invigorated, we continue along our trail, keeping an eye out for a camping spot.
It is Sanna’s keen eyes that spotted it.
Nestled in a clearing, halfway down a slope, was a slab of flat, grassy earth that would perfectly fit her tent. We drop our packs to the ground and roll over to lie in the sun, squinting as clouds swept overhead.
We mellow here, with the grass on our backs, cowbells in our ears and the sun pinching our faces. It is perfect.
A chilly wind calls our stomachs to attention, and we prepare a Soy Bolognese for dinner. Sanna manages the preparations while I take the time to familiarise myself with the landscape and find my outside bathroom.
Dinner is served with a pack of parmesan cheese divvied up between us. After dinner, clean up comes as a courtesy of the snow nearby – which surprisingly offers the right amount of roughness to scrub tomato sauce out of a pot.
Sanna cooking up a storm and me eager to dive in.
Spending the night outside
The tent is Sanna’s pride and joy. She has taken it with her on many adventures in Sweden, and I am proud to be part of its first time in Switzerland. The setup is quick against the stunning backdrop of the setting sun.
It’s incredible how brilliantly the light changes. If you’re in one spot for long enough, you get to see all the phases. I am grateful to witness the sun rail against these mountain walls during the midday, in the evening, and even at first light.
The sun strikes the mountain at such an angle that it cascades down along the snow-smeared slopes. I think the evening light is my favourite. What was crisp on the horizon earlier in the day begins to fade and smudge into the sky.
My morning coffee
The morning heralds a cacophony of bird calls. I lie in the tent with my eyes closed, trying to count the different sounds. It is hard. All the sounds rolled into each other. Eventually, I brave a peek outside. The sky is awash with grey, and the mountains stand astute in the morning light. Even the contours of the pine trees have a sharpness to them.
There are not many gentle things about this morning.
After heeding nature’s call, I returned from the tree line to find the sun stroking the crest of the mountain. It looked oddly like pink gums. These first rays signalled time for coffee.
We lit our stove and get the water rolling in no time. I’ve been experimenting with different ways of making coffee in the mountains. This morning we are trying instant, as it means less to carry.
I wait eagerly for the coffee. The night had been cold, and frost sticks to the ground. We watch light spill over the forested valley, illuminating the fresh green trees.
Sometimes I still cannot believe this country. It seems like something out of a fairy tale. With rugged mountains, glass-like lakes and dense evergreen trees, it all feels surreal.
I look forward to spending many, many more nights outside in Switzerland.
Soninke Combrinck
I write about connecting with nature as I chase my own adventures around the world.
